Mulligatawny with Apple and Curry

Sat, 25 Jan 2025 09:00:00 +0000

Mulligatawny is one of the strangest and most enduring things to come out of the collision between British and Indian kitchens. The name is a mangling of the Tamil words milagu thanni - “pepper water” - which described a thin, peppery, tamarind-sharp broth from the south of India, closer to rasam than to anything you would call soup in Britain. The British in India took that idea, decided a proper meal needed a proper soup course, and rebuilt it into something thicker, meatier and altogether more substantial. What came back to Britain was a hybrid: an Indian idea wearing a British dinner-party coat.

Kedgeree with Smoked Haddock and Curried Butter

Sat, 06 Apr 2024 07:00:00 +0000

Kedgeree is one of the great British breakfasts, though its roots run straight back to India, and a good one is a study in gentle contrasts: soft flakes of smoked haddock, fluffy spiced basmati, jammy soft-boiled eggs and a lift of lemon and fresh herbs. Done badly it turns to a claggy, over-spiced mush; done well it is light, fragrant and deeply savoury. My finishing flourish is a curried brown butter, poured foaming over the top at the table, which pulls the whole dish together with a nutty, spiced richness.

Anglo-Indian - vo.rs

Mulligatawny with Apple and Curry

Kedgeree with Smoked Haddock and Curried Butter