Corn Chowder with Bacon and Chive

Sweet summer corn and smoky bacon in a bowl

Corn Chowder with Bacon and Chive

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ServesServes 4Prep20 minCook35 minCuisineAmericanCourseMain course

Ingredients

  • 6 ears of fresh corn (or 600g sweetcorn kernels, fresh or frozen)
  • 150g smoked streaky bacon, cut into lardons
  • 1 tbsp butter
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 2 celery sticks, finely chopped
  • 3 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 2 medium floury potatoes, peeled and cut into 1cm dice
  • 1 tbsp plain flour
  • 700ml chicken or vegetable stock
  • 150ml double cream
  • 1 bay leaf
  • ½ tsp smoked paprika
  • Salt and black pepper, to taste
  • A good bunch of chives, finely snipped

Method

  1. If using fresh corn, stand each cob upright and slice the kernels off with a sharp knife. Keep the stripped cobs.
  2. Fry the bacon lardons in a dry pot over a medium heat until crisp and the fat has rendered. Lift out and set aside, leaving the fat behind.
  3. Add the butter to the bacon fat, then cook the onion and celery for 8 minutes until soft. Stir in the garlic for 1 minute.
  4. Sprinkle over the flour and stir for a minute, then gradually pour in the stock, stirring to avoid lumps.
  5. Add the potatoes, bay leaf, smoked paprika and the stripped corn cobs (if you have them) for extra sweetness. Simmer for 12 minutes until the potatoes are nearly tender.
  6. Remove the cobs and bay leaf. Add the corn kernels and cook for 5 minutes more.
  7. Ladle out about a third of the soup, blitz it smooth, and stir it back in to thicken and add creaminess. Pour in the cream and warm through without boiling.
  8. Season well, then serve scattered with the crisp bacon and a generous shower of snipped chives.

There is a short window, somewhere in the height of summer, when sweetcorn is at its absolute peak: the kernels milky and bursting, so sweet you could almost eat them raw off the cob. That is when I make corn chowder, a soup that takes that fleeting sweetness and frames it with smoky bacon, soft potato and a whisper of cream. It is the most comforting thing imaginable, and it is one of those rare bowls that manages to feel both summery and deeply cosy at the same time.

Chowder is one of those wonderfully sturdy New World categories, a family of thick, chunky, often cream-enriched soups with deep roots in the coastal kitchens of New England. The word is thought to come from the French chaudière, the cauldron in which fishermen would pool their catch into a communal stew. Clam chowder is the most famous of the clan, but corn chowder is its cheerful, vegetable-led cousin, perfect for high summer when the corn is good and seafood feels like too much effort.

What makes a chowder a chowder, rather than just a soup, is that combination of texture and richness: tender potatoes, plenty of body, and a creaminess that coats the spoon. It should be substantial enough to be dinner, not a polite starter. This version delivers exactly that, leaning on the natural starch of floury potatoes and a clever bit of blending rather than a heavy hand with the cream.

Here is where a little cunning earns its keep. When you cut the kernels off fresh cobs, do not throw the naked cobs away. They are packed with sweet, milky flavour that never makes it into the kernels alone, so I drop the stripped cobs straight into the simmering soup to steep, then fish them out before serving. It is a free flavour boost that makes the whole thing taste emphatically of corn, and it is the single move that separates a good corn chowder from a great one. If you are using frozen corn and have no cobs, do not fret; the chowder is still lovely, just very slightly less intense.

The second trick is the partial blitz. Rather than blending the whole soup smooth, which would lose all that lovely chunky texture, or leaving it entirely chunky, which can feel thin, I ladle out about a third, purée it, and stir it back in. This gives you the best of both worlds: a creamy, thickened, velvety base studded with whole kernels and soft potato. No flour-heavy roux, no double cream by the bucketload, just the corn and potato doing the work themselves.

Bacon and corn are old friends, the salt and smoke of the one playing off the sugar of the other. I use smoked streaky bacon, cut into lardons and rendered crisp at the very start so that the soup is built on the bacon fat, carrying that savoury, smoky note all the way through. The crisp lardons themselves are saved and scattered over each bowl at the end, so you get little salty, crunchy hits against the soft sweetness of the soup. A pinch of smoked paprika in the pot doubles down on that smoke, echoing the bacon and giving the whole thing a warm, faintly amber depth.

A note on garlic, since I am incapable of writing a recipe without one: three cloves is right here, enough to season without bullying the delicate corn. This is not a dish where garlic should announce itself, but a chowder with no garlic at all tastes oddly hollow, so do not skip it.

The cream goes in right at the end and must not boil, or it can split and turn grainy; you simply want to warm it through until the chowder is glossy and rich. Be restrained with it. The corn and potato already provide most of the body, and too much cream mutes the corn’s fresh sweetness, which is the whole reason you are making this in the first place.

The chives are not a garnish to be skipped. Their fresh, gentle, oniony green is the perfect bright note against the rich, sweet, smoky base, and a really generous shower of them over each bowl lifts the whole thing. Snip them finely and pile them high. Serve with crusty bread or, if you are feeling indulgent, a packet of crackers for proper New England authenticity. For a meatless version, leave out the bacon, fry the onions in butter, and add a little extra smoked paprika to keep that smoky character; it is still wonderful. But on a warm evening at the end of summer, with good corn and crisp bacon, this is about as content as a bowl of soup can make me.

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Fern
Written by Fern

vo.rs's resident home cook. A firm believer that the best recipes are the classics with one small, clever twist, Fern cooks the way most of us actually do: in a normal kitchen, on a normal weeknight, without a brigade of sous-chefs. Expect generous flavour, honest shortcuts and strong opinions about garlic.