Crisp Belgian Waffles with Pearl Sugar
Light within, crunchy without
Forget the thin batter poured from a jug; a true Liege-style Belgian waffle is made from a soft, enriched yeast dough, closer to a brioche than a pancake. The twist that defines it is pearl sugar, sturdy nuggets that stay intact through mixing and then caramelise in the hot iron, studding the waffle with pockets of crunch and golden, toffee-like edges. The inside stays tender and light. Eaten warm and plain, they need nothing more.
Crisp Belgian Waffles with Pearl Sugar
Ingredients
- 350g strong white bread flour
- 7g fast-action dried yeast
- 2 tbsp caster sugar
- 0.5 tsp salt
- 200ml whole milk, warmed
- 2 large eggs
- 150g butter, melted and cooled
- 1 tsp vanilla extract
- 150g pearl sugar
Method
- Whisk the flour, yeast, caster sugar and salt together in a large bowl.
- Beat the warm milk, eggs, melted butter and vanilla together, then pour into the dry ingredients and mix to a thick, sticky dough.
- Cover the bowl and leave in a warm place for 1 to 1.5 hours, until risen and bubbly.
- Knock back the dough gently, then fold in the pearl sugar so it is evenly distributed.
- Heat a waffle iron and brush lightly with oil or melted butter.
- Place a generous spoonful of dough in the centre of each section and close the iron.
- Cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until deep golden and the sugar at the edges has caramelised. Avoid opening too early.
- Lift out carefully and serve straight away, while the caramelised sugar is crisp. Repeat with the remaining dough.
3 The Story
Belgium has more than one famous waffle, and the distinction matters. The light, deep-pocketed waffle dusted with icing sugar and served with fruit is the Brussels waffle, made from a pourable batter. The waffle in this recipe is its richer cousin, the Liege waffle, named for the city in eastern Belgium and built from a dense, sweet yeast dough. It is denser, chewier and altogether more indulgent, and it is the style most often sold warm by street vendors as a handheld treat.
The ingredient that defines the Liege waffle is pearl sugar, also called nib sugar. These are hard, irregular white nuggets of compressed sugar, far coarser than granulated, that do not dissolve when folded into the dough. As the waffle cooks against the hot iron, the sugar at the surface melts and caramelises into crunchy, golden, faintly bitter pockets, while the pieces in the centre stay intact and add bursts of sweetness and texture. No ordinary sugar can reproduce this effect, which is why pearl sugar is worth seeking out from Continental delis or online.
The dough itself is an enriched yeast dough, rich with butter and egg, which gives the waffles their tender, almost brioche-like crumb. Allowing it to prove develops both flavour and the airy structure that keeps the inside light despite the dough being substantial. Unlike batter waffles, which are mixed and cooked in minutes, a Liege waffle rewards a little patience.
Cooking them well comes down to heat and restraint. The iron needs to be properly hot so the sugar caramelises rather than simply melting, and the lid should stay closed for the full few minutes; opening it too soon can tear the soft dough before it has set. The sugar that escapes and caramelises on the plates is normal, though it is worth wiping the iron between batches so it does not burn.
Because the sweetness and crunch are built into the waffle, it needs no syrup or elaborate toppings to be delicious; many Belgians eat them entirely plain, warm from the iron. A dusting of icing sugar, a few fresh berries or the smallest scoop of ice cream are all welcome, but the waffle itself is the point.
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