International Hummus Day

 May 13  Observance
<p>In 2012, an eighteen-year-old named Ben Lang noticed that Nutella had its own day. World Nutella Day had become a cheerful annual fixture online, and Lang, along with his friend Miriam Young, asked the obvious follow-up question: if a chocolate-hazelnut spread could have a holiday, why not hummus? He picked a date, set up a website, and then, in the way of most teenage internet projects, more or less forgot about it. The following year tweets started arriving wishing him a happy Hummus Day, and he realised the thing had taken on a life of its own. International Hummus Day, now observed on 13 May, is therefore that rarest of food holidays: one with a known inventor, a documented start, and a small comedy of accidental success behind it.</p> <h2 id="where-the-day-comes-from">Where the day comes from</h2><div class="ad-unit ad-in-article" aria-label="Advertisement"> <span class="ad-label">Advertisement</span> <ins class="adsbygoogle" style="display:block;text-align:center" data-ad-client="ca-pub-3726833845844946" data-ad-slot="3291553914" data-ad-format="auto" data-full-width-responsive="true"></ins> <script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script> </div> <p>Lang&rsquo;s original choice of date was 15 May, but he soon hit a problem. In the calendar of the region most associated with the dish, 15 May is Nakba Day, when Palestinians mourn the displacement of 1948, a date freighted with grief and political weight entirely unsuited to a celebration of food. Lang moved the observance to 13 May, where it has stayed. The shift is a small but telling detail, because it shows the day brushing up against the very tensions that make hummus more than a snack. A dish claimed by neighbours who disagree about almost everything else cannot have a frictionless holiday, and the date change is the quiet acknowledgement of that.</p> <h2 id="a-history-nobody-can-agree-on">A history nobody can agree on</h2> <p>The origins of the holiday are clear; the origins of the food are anything but. Hummus, in its modern form, is a blend of cooked chickpeas, tahini, olive oil, garlic and lemon juice, and several countries across the Eastern Mediterranean and the Levant claim it as their own. Lebanon, Israel, Syria, Palestine, Greece and Egypt have all, at various points, asserted ownership, and the dispute is not merely culinary pride. In 2008 a Lebanese industry association went so far as to file a complaint seeking protected status for hummus as a uniquely Lebanese product, comparable to the protections enjoyed by Champagne or Parmesan.</p> <p>The historical record is too thin to settle the argument. Chickpeas have been cultivated in the Middle East for thousands of years, and sesame paste appears in the region&rsquo;s cooking far back into antiquity, but the specific combination that defines modern hummus is harder to date. Written references to dishes resembling it surface in medieval Arabic cookbooks from the Levant, and that is roughly as far as solid evidence goes. The honest position is that hummus emerged gradually from a shared regional larder rather than being invented in a single place on a single day, which is precisely why no one can win the fight over it.</p> <p>A frequently repeated claim is worth handling carefully. Some popular accounts attribute the first written hummus recipe to the cookbooks of thirteenth-century Cairo or Damascus, citing texts such as the Kitab al-Tabikh, and it is true that these manuscripts contain cold chickpea preparations seasoned with vinegar, herbs and spices. What they generally do not contain is tahini bound with the chickpeas in the way modern hummus demands, so the recipes are best understood as ancestors of the dish rather than the dish itself. This is exactly the kind of nuance the ownership debates tend to flatten: each side reaches for the oldest manuscript it can find, while the truthful story is one of slow evolution across a region whose kitchens borrowed from one another for centuries before any modern border was drawn.</p> <h2 id="the-lighter-side-of-a-serious-feud">The lighter side of a serious feud</h2><div class="ad-unit ad-in-article" aria-label="Advertisement"> <span class="ad-label">Advertisement</span> <ins class="adsbygoogle" style="display:block;text-align:center" data-ad-client="ca-pub-3726833845844946" data-ad-slot="3291553914" data-ad-format="auto" data-full-width-responsive="true"></ins> <script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script> </div> <p>There is a comic dimension to the hummus wars worth recording, because it became literal. In the late 2000s and early 2010s, Lebanon and Israel competed to cook the world&rsquo;s largest plate of hummus, each attempt aimed at the Guinness World Records and at one-upping the other. Lebanon&rsquo;s winning effort in 2010 weighed in at over ten tonnes, produced by hundreds of cooks in a village outside Beirut. The contest was half national pride, half theatre, and it captured something true: that arguing over hummus is itself part of the culture of hummus, an affectionate quarrel between people whose food is more alike than they sometimes care to admit.</p> <h2 id="why-it-matters">Why it matters</h2> <p>Strip away the rivalries and the day makes a genuine point about food as a connector. Hummus is one of those dishes that has crossed every conceivable border, eaten by people who could not place its homeland on a map, and that very portability is the argument for celebrating it. The day puts on the table the idea that a shared meal can be a small act of connection even between people on opposite sides of a dispute, which is a less hollow claim for hummus than for almost any other food precisely because of how contested it is.</p> <p>There is a nutritional case too, and it is solid. Hummus is built on chickpeas, which deliver plant protein and fibre, rounded out with the healthy fats of olive oil and tahini. As demand has grown, so has the global market for chickpeas and sesame, with real effects for the farmers who grow them. The rise of hummus is part of the broader swing toward plant-based eating, and it sits naturally alongside the other great chickpea-adjacent dips on the calendar; a day for <a href="/specialdate/us-national-guacamole-day/">guacamole</a> speaks to the same appetite for a fresh, vegetable-forward bowl to gather around, and the <a href="/specialdate/us-national-spicy-guacamole-day/">spicy guacamole</a> variant makes the same point about how a simple base invites endless tinkering.</p> <h2 id="how-it-is-celebrated">How it is celebrated</h2> <p>On 13 May, restaurants and cafés run hummus specials, tastings and discounts, while home cooks flood social media with photographs of their creations. Food festivals and cooking demonstrations show off the range of the dish, and some gatherings turn into friendly contests for the smoothest, creamiest or most inventive bowl. The genius of the day, from a participation standpoint, is its low barrier to entry: anyone with a tin of chickpeas and a blender can take part, which is a large part of why a teenager&rsquo;s website grew into a global observance.</p> <p>The dish has also generated its own genre of dedicated eateries. In Israel the traditional hummus joint, the <em>hummusiya</em>, serves bowls of warm hummus topped with whole chickpeas, ful or meat, eaten for breakfast or lunch and mopped up with bread rather than scooped from a supermarket tub; the best-known of these acquire fierce loyalists who argue over which serves the finest in the country. A parallel culture of long-established hummus houses thrives in Beirut, Damascus and the old city of Jerusalem, where some establishments have been grinding chickpeas for generations and close for the day once the morning&rsquo;s batch runs out. International Hummus Day, for all its online origins, points back toward these real and rooted places, where hummus is not a snack but a meal with its own etiquette.</p> <h2 id="symbols-traditions-and-the-pursuit-of-smoothness">Symbols, traditions and the pursuit of smoothness</h2> <p>Hummus rarely arrives alone. It traditionally anchors a mezze spread, surrounded by warm flatbread, raw vegetables, olives and pickles, and finished with a swirl of olive oil, a dusting of paprika or sumac and a scatter of whole chickpeas. Regional variations multiply from there, with cumin, roasted garlic, herbs or chilli, and modern cooks reaching for roasted red pepper, beetroot or coriander. The great obsession among enthusiasts is texture: the silky, almost mousse-like smoothness that separates a transcendent hummus from a gritty one, achieved through good tahini, well-cooked chickpeas, and, in many kitchens, the patient removal of the chickpea skins. The name itself is a useful reminder of how elemental the dish is, since &ldquo;hummus&rdquo; is simply the Arabic word for chickpeas.</p> <h2 id="fun-facts">Fun facts</h2> <ul> <li>International Hummus Day was created by an eighteen-year-old, Ben Lang, who promptly forgot about it and only realised it had succeeded when strangers began tweeting him good wishes a year later.</li> <li>The date was moved from 15 May to 13 May to avoid clashing with Nakba Day, a sombre date in the Palestinian calendar.</li> <li>In 2010, cooks near Beirut prepared a plate of hummus weighing over ten tonnes to claim the Guinness World Record, part of a running culinary contest with Israel.</li> <li>A Lebanese industry body once sought legal protected-origin status for hummus, hoping to treat it the way France treats Champagne.</li> <li>The word &ldquo;hummus&rdquo; means nothing more exotic than &ldquo;chickpeas&rdquo; in Arabic, so ordering &ldquo;hummus bi tahini&rdquo; literally asks for &ldquo;chickpeas with tahini&rdquo;.</li> </ul> <h2 id="a-closing-reflection">A closing reflection</h2> <p>It is a strange thing that a bowl of blended chickpeas can carry so much weight, summoning national pride, legal disputes and ten-tonne world-record stunts, and yet remain, at heart, one of the simplest and most generous foods imaginable. Perhaps that is the real lesson buried in a holiday invented on a whim by a teenager. The things people fight hardest to claim as uniquely their own are often the things they have, without quite noticing, been sharing all along.</p>
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Atlas
Written by Atlas

Writes vo.rs's calendar of special days and the stories of the people, places and curiosities behind them. Endlessly nosy about why we mark the dates we do, from solemn remembrances to gloriously silly food holidays, Atlas digs up the origins, the traditions and the odd fact worth repeating at dinner.